FIBRE CEMENT BOARD SIDING

RAIN SCREENING WINDOWS..there are many methods this is a popular method that  I follow... check with local inspectors if in doubt

Start by stapling a single strip of moisture barrier 300wide under rough opening
make sure that it extends past window on each side by 300
... attach at top only you will be sliding building wrap underneath later to form a shingle effect
... cut two patches of peal and stick membrane 100 by 100 (4"x4") and stick them so they fold back into the corners of rough opening ...
 as per picture                        

 next wrap peel and stick over moisture barrier
and up inside rough opening and up jambs 100(4") see first picture
... now fold moisture barrier  into window and wrap 300 back unto sheathing... hanging over shingle style        
the below sill strip  


repeat the same for other side of jamb  and complete with a single 300 wide piece across window header top piece overlaps side jamb pieces shingle style   

Now apply a bead of polyurethane caulk around sides and top of window rough opening
and slide window in...shim under window to level  and allow for under sill drainage.. nail window into place

I use two layers of thirty minute paper to wrap my houses... this is accomplished with a first horizontal layer starter strip followed by a 2nd layer directly on top.. the following layers overlap each other by 1/2 the sheet width every strip
...make sure the layer below window sill is tucked beneath all window wrap layers again shingle style  i just lightly staple the paper on and immediately follow with my treated 10m plywood 38 wide furring straps... these straps I nail vertically every 300 (12 ") (this can vary from 8" to 16") I use galvi coated roofing nails 1and 3/4" and tack every couple of feet... note minimum sheathing I use is 1/2 inch thick plywood  any thing less and you should find your studs and only nail into these
 
Any small openings re water pipes, exhaust vents, electrical boxes should all be pushed through  a rubber membrane (epdm) applied to the sheathing shingle style with the building paper and caulked to exterior cladding.


NOTE: Flashed at top and bottom of window

Note: Hardi on 3/8 treated furring strips on two layers of 30 minute paper... the furring is 12" on centres, hardi is nailed through furring strips with a 1 3/4" galvanized roofing nail... the geckos or siding gages hold hardi in place while nailing... note the hardi end seam has furring backing...slip and 8"x8" piece of 30 minute paper here before nailing...this just ensures the weather does not get into seam..I use the hardi polyurethane colored caulk in this joint also..but caulk fails over the life of the siding the paper is good backup..




Note:
The rain screen has to be blocked where it enters the soffit (fire code)
and it must have bug screen in any location that is open...re: bottom of walls or depending how you trim your windows..above the trim... the windows above is a rain screen window with a pocket and a rubber seal ...the trim tucks right into the window pocket construction...sealing it tight against the elements

Note: I use a hard metal bug screen J on the bottom edge.. this holds the hardi away from the wall and thus you do not  need a starter strip to give the proper profile
... the starting row should hang down past the bug screen about a half inch.. do not worry about keeping this row deadly level it is more important to ensure the foundation /mud sill seam is well protected...  (because the foundation is not always level)..the second layer must be deadly level...





Note: the siding quages are a must to have.. but I do not depend on them for keeping my courses level...on each board I use a level to keep the runs aligned...Note the piece of green tape in left gecko... the geckos come from factory calibrated the same but any little difference will accumulate up the wall... so just as you would turn your level end to end to keep your level line perfect... I alternate the geckos from left to right on each new lift... it can make a big difference...









 There are several ways to run Hardi into an outside corner... you can butt it to the trim and caulk it  this gives a very nice look... or you can run it right to the corner and trim right over top it is not as pretty but I think more effective... as caulk tends to fail over the life of  siding

NOTE: THIS APPLICATION REQUIRES A BUG SCREEN BETWEEN FLASHING AND HARDI

AGAIN NOTE THE CAULKING DOWN THE SIDES... THE CUT EDGE OF HARDI DOES NOT LOOK LIKE IT HAS BEEN PAINTED








NOTE: THIS IS A GOOD LOOK THE hardi BUTTS TO TRIM AND THE TRIM IS DOUBLE FLASHED THE TRIM SITS FLAT ON THE RAIN SCREEN
BUT TO ME IT IS ALL OPEN TO DRIVING RAIN. AND DEPENDENT ON THE OWNER CHECKING THE CAULK ON AN ON GOING BASIS

IT LOOKS GOOD BUT LOOKS CAN BE SUPERFICIAL