bar types

- wrecking bar, goose neck, burke bar, pry bar, crow, bar, wonder bar, L bar, renovator bar, cats paw, deer’s foot

Clamps  spring, “C”, pipe, miter, screw steel bar ratchet, deep throat ... the above clamps are must when building  a home they can replace an extra set have hands ... they can be used to pull plates together... build beams and columns straighten trim

drills

-battery pack hand for quick jobs or jobs were it is troublesome to drag a cord

-hammer drill electric power and a bump action ratchet has rotary and rotary hammer modes ...  handy when you want to drill quick holes like through a pile of plywood, for form work...lean on it hard and drive that bit through.. it is also a good drill for driving  a hole saw through a rim joist for dryer or oven vents

rotary hammer drill uses electric an pneumatic power piston rotary hammer and hammer mode hits 10 times harder than hammer drill use only light pressure, bigger sizes are demolition hammer for breaking concrete hammer only mode.  this is a must when doing concrete form work..use a 3/16th bit  drill through your 2x4 into the concrete, then slip a piece of tie wire into the hole and a 3" duplex nail driven through the plate anchors it snuggly to the concrete... I like to user a 5/8" wedge anchor to anchour down my mud sills this drill  makes it quick and easy

-bits: digger, spade, asphalt cutter, chisel, scaling, tamper, bush, coring cutter

angle grinder

-hand grinder this is the big one.. a small one is a must when building

-a grinding cup for smoothing concrete

- a diamond blade for cutting concrete

- a metal cutting blade for rebar or steel

-a steel brush for cleaning irregular shapes

Grinders are another must smoothing out concrete, cutting small control joints.. rough sanding and cleaning 

-You can 4" circular saw blades for the small grinders that will fit were a circular saw cannot go

chain saw

-check oil, for cracks,, loose nuts, safety devices

-sharpening cutter put pressure on the edge of the cutter on the outward stroke

-parts: tension screw, guide bar, sprocket, sprocket guard, brake and chain catcher, rear handle guard, front handle guard

-watch for kick back  using tip top of nose to cut

-cuts: top, under, plunge..  plunge most dangerous

-start on ground foot in rear handle

- chisels: paring, framing, butt, bevel

handle types.. tang, socket molded

-grinder, whet stone (oil or water), and strop

-hatchets: half , single edge ground to 25 to 30°, double, edge, lathing,

circular saw

-size designated by diameter of blade

-bevel, thumb screw, rip guide, depth hand lock  

I like the makita, light weight easy to handle but most important the plates are always the same.. I know when I pick it up it will cut one and a half inches to the right side of the plate and five and one eighth to the left side...I like the aluminum plate with the inches marked on for any rips up to 5 inches, you do not have to snap a line just line up the measurement with edge of material and go...what ever brand you decide on stick with it because you know how it will perform

blades

rip, cross cut, combination, dado, adjustable dado, plywood blade, diamond concrete blade, metal cutting blades

drill press

The drill press is a must for building cabinets... specially with European hinges  and movable shelves... use jigs and keep them in your shop for future use

Parts:  belt tensioner, motor, head support safety collar, lever feed, table lock, column, base, index pin, clamp edge, tilt-table, tilt angle scale, key chuck, threaded mounting collar, quill, quill lock, depth stop, control switch, variable speed pilot wheel, safety guard, pinion shaft, four speed pulley 700..  12540..  2400..  4200

Bits: mortising, cutting plugs, sanding, hole saws, twist drills, machine spur bits, auger bit, forstener bit, jigs, holding vices

hand saw

parts: toe, blade.. skew back, handle, heel, teeth, point,

types: cross cut (teeth like knives), rip(chisel teeth), back (miter box), coping, keyhole, compass, hack, flush cut off

- saw set = kerf

Sharpening:

-jointing .. file down top of teeth to make each tooth the same height,

-shaping.. . each tooth to the same shape(rip saw back of tooth 52 to 60 ° front of tooth 0 to 8°..  cross cut saw face of tooth is .15°back is 45°),

-setting.. . use a saw set, set at the number of teeth per inch,

-filing.. . (crosscut file at 65° to tooth.. rip file at 90° to tooth),

-dressing whet stone once down each side..

files

-fine, smooth, coarse, bastard

-burnisher

-whet stone

planes

bench planes largest to smallest: jointer,
fore, jack, smooth and block

-parts: plane iron, plane iron cap and cap screw, lever cap and screw, frog.. . frog adjusting “Y” fork and nut .. frog hold down screw..  frog adjusting screw,  lateral lever, handle and sole

-Note: mouth should be narrower the harder the wood, for hardwood the plane iron cap should be within 1 to 2  mm of the blade edge..  blade edge should be ground to 20 to 25 ° for softwood

-spoke shave

power plane

-set to 0°

-bevel adjustment sets angle of apron to cutter

-install cutter blade slotted end first

-pressure on rear  when finishing cut

 - great for doors, for leveling floor joists... watch for nails blades are expensive

mitre saw

power miter box, sliding compound saw  ... one of these is a must for cutting uniform lengths of studs, headers, and  joists while building and for trim work once you are into the finishing stage... set it up on a bench with support for your work.. put stop blocks up for multiple cuts

radials arm

Parts: radial arm, elevating handle, miter clamp, miter latch, miter scale, yoke clamp, yoke leveling pin, yoke handle, rip lock, bevel clamp, bevel locating pin, bevel scale and pointer, safety guard, blade guard, anti kick finger, control switch, guide fence, table top, spacer boards... I hate radial arm saws,  but I have never really given them a chance

router

This is a box I put together to take out on the site with me It is simple and great for trim work, exterior and interior.. I like to use a router to cut out the plywood on my windows...I will let a piece of plywood sheathing run wild and come back and router it flush always gives your sheathing a professional look

-attachments: shaper tool, power plane

-jigs: hinge gains, stair templates

-built in shank, screw type bit

- bits with pilots

- template collar

-edge guide pilot

bits: coping,, cove, round over, rabbeting

reciprocating saw

orbital action cuts on upstroke stays clean and sharp, wood cutting, metal cutting and knife blades

-cut good face down

sanders

-belt, disk, rollers, drums,

flint.. .white sand, emery.. .dull black  cloth base, garnet.. .reddish-brown, aluminum oxide.. . off white to gray brown, silicon carbide sharp and brittle,

-open coats, closed coats, coarse grit = 50 grits 60 to 100 removes machine marks, grit 120 -180 finishes grit 200 to 600 between coats

-types: belt, orbital

table saw

-lubricate adjusting wheels with silicon or graphite

-blade coasts for only a short time indicates tight belts

-replacing double belts use a matched set

-use a square to set miter gauge positive stop at ninety

-use a push stick on narrow stock (>150)

dangers kickback: narrow stock .. crooked stock, loose knots or splits, 2 mm max. between side of insert slot and blade

-support work so it remains flat always feed from the front use: extension tables, rollers, helpers

Jigs: stop blocks for cutoffs dado blind cuts and stopped dodos,

-set blade 6 mm above material

blade tilted away from fence for bevel cuts

table saw

Parts: guide fence, miter gauge, groves for miter gauge, tilt handle wheel gauge and lock for bevels, wheel height adjustment, table slot throat insert ( 2  mm clearance),  splitter anti kick back and guard for safety,

Check for cutting accuracy with square and measuring tape to fence and miter groove

thickness planer

Parts: elevating hand wheel, chip guard, depth of cut gauge, feed motor, housing cover, variable speed feed, roll control, table bed, cutter head, out feed roller, in feed roller upper and lower, pressure bar, chip breaker, 4,000 to 6,000 knives, 1 mm passes, lumber placed so grain flows down at front

Jointer

the jointer is a power planer is great when trimming and things do not quite fit... also great for taking a piece of rough dirty hardwood and turning it into furniture grade

hand drill

-brace and bit: shell(chuck), jaws(chuck), box ratchet, sweep, bow, handle, head

-drill bit has tang

-automatic push drill uses a fluted bit

-portable drill size is designated by the maximum “chuck” drill size e.g.: 1/2 inch

- drills range from 1 to 8

-forstner bit for cutting part way through wood

-carbide bit tip for concrete

-harder material slower drill speed

-drill bits: spade, twist, solid center..  single.. double twist augers, fluted

-metal use awl, punch, to start hole

-sharpen a twist bit at a 59° angle

nailers, staplers

-pneumatic

-trigger and nose must be depressed

-boots, glasses hearing

-disconnect air to load, set nail gauge

-oil 2.. 3 drops every 2 hours

-check air supply pressure twice a day

-use only male connector on gun

-keep air supply free of water

Nailers are another must ... framing coil nailer or a spiker make framing a breeze... than the roofing nailer shingles the roof and doubles on the hardi plank siding, then out comes the brad nailer for the interior trim

the 2" finishing nailer looks after exterior trim... and the stapler puts up soffit j in the blink of an eye

powder actuated nailer

Nice to have... great for commercial work re metal studs to concrete and driving plates onto steel beams 

Homes not so much.

-concrete:  shoot 75 from edge..  penetration 1/3 or less the thickness of concrete ideal 25 mm / do not shoot: 60 mpa too brittle.. under 10 mpa to soft.. .no to pre-stressed.. . no to spalled area

-5 mm minimum steel to accept a fastener.. 12  mm ideal ..  stay 50 mm from any weld

-no to brittle materials

-shot strength (low to high) gray, brown, green, yellow, red, purple

watch for: piston must fit fastener..  fastener guide must fit tool.. .right cartridge

-low velocity 100 meters per sec(captive piston)

-high velocity 150 meters per second

-WCB. in box :copy of regulations, operators manual, powder load chart, upkeep accessories

-fastener at 90° angle

layout

--types: compass, scriber, trammel points, marking gauge, awl, pencil, chalk line, butt gauges latch bolt markers, steel tapes

levels

-vials should be curved

-level should be turned end to end for leveling over long distances

-chorobate made from lumber 5 meters long

squares

- framing square 400 by 600 often has tables for framing, braces, polygons

-try square

-combination square

-t bevel

transit

Parts: peep sight, level vial, telescope, telescope objective lens, vertical circle reader, optical plummet, plate level vials, adjustment screws, circle position ring, lower motion clamp and tangent screw, upper motion and tangent screw, horizontal circle reader, telescope eye piece, focusing, vernier scale

Laying out a building you need:

- two points in a straight line at 90 degrees to layout position

-a long tape

-distance between the two points

-distance to the left or right from the known line

-HOW: put nail in point of beginning  (POB) loop tape over nail measure out needed distance to WP1 set scale at 0 degrees move to WP2 with known distance and angle, scribe an arc move pencil down arc to cross hairs and mark WP2 rise over run equals tan and tan times run equals rise

Note bisector of a chord  bisects the angle of the chords two end radiuses the two known lines become the rise and the rake( rise = 1/2 the chord the bisecting angle is 90°

-laying out an arc: layout the 90 degree angle which the arc will run from, the 90° angle represents the radius of the chord and the tangent of the radius, note: that the angle between the tangent and the chord is equal to 1/2 the angle of the chord’s radiuses

electrical

-white goes to silver plate in plug,

black “hot” goes to gold plate and green goes to ground screw

-too little or too much voltage can ruin armature

-use a power cord AWG #12 or heavier

saw blades

-parts of tooth: back, point or hook, face

-crosscut hook to back is 50 °, back has a 10 ° bevel, face has a .15 ° bevel

- rip blade file level and square to blade tooth.. .19° back , 45°point and 26° face degrees

-setting dado swaged teeth should be set in the gullet

-combination blade teeth are square.. . rakers are .5  mm shorter than cutters